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Skin & CosmeticGrade CPreclinical or uncontrolled3 primary sources

Matrixyl

Also known as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 · pal-KTTKS · Matrixyl 3000 precursor

A collagen fragment attached to a fatty acid so it can cross the skin barrier. One of the few cosmetic peptides with a published double-blind trial showing wrinkle improvement.

Overview

When collagen breaks down it releases short fragments, and the skin appears to read those fragments as a signal that repair is needed. KTTKS is one such fragment from type I collagen. On its own it is too water-loving to get through the skin's outer layer, so it is attached to palmitic acid, which lets it pass. Once through, it prompts fibroblasts to make more collagen and matrix proteins.

Research areas

PhotoageingCollagen synthesisTopical anti-ageing

Dosing reported in the literature

Every protocol below is reproduced from a published study or approved labelling, with its source named. These are records of what was studied — not recommendations, and not a suggestion that any of them is appropriate for any person.

Protocol as reportedSource
Topical 3 ppm pal-KTTKS applied twice daily for 12 weeks in a vehicle-controlled split-face designRobinson et al., International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2005

Trial status

A published 12-week double-blind, vehicle-controlled split-face trial, plus supporting in-vitro work.

Reported safety signals

  • Well tolerated topically; irritation is uncommon and less frequent than with retinoids.
  • Effect sizes are modest — this is a supporting ingredient, not a substitute for tretinoin or a procedure.
  • Injection has no published basis or safety data.

Common questions

Why is the palmitoyl part necessary?

KTTKS is hydrophilic and will not cross the lipid-rich stratum corneum in useful amounts. Attaching palmitic acid makes the molecule lipophilic enough to partition into the barrier. Without it, the peptide sits on the surface doing nothing.

Primary sources

3 citations
  1. 01

    Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science2005

  2. 02

    Cosmeceutical peptides: a review of the evidence

    Clinics in Dermatology2016

  3. 03

    Matrikines and matrikine signalling in skin

    Journal of Investigative Dermatology2016

Medical disclaimer

This page is for informational and research purposes only. Nothing here constitutes medical advice. The compounds discussed are research chemicals. Consult a qualified clinician before starting any protocol.

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